Winds so strong the rain blew sideways. Tides so high the waves exploded into cliffs like charges of dynamite. A day so brightened and alive with blue-sky that jackets, wool caps and gloves were replaced by short-sleeved shirts and shorts.

	Islands in the sand		Walking near Coquille Point

Visiting the Southern Oregon Coast town in and near Bandon in the fading days of winter is experiencing the vagaries of weather.

	A walkway to the beach		Interpretive signs explain the sights.

A five-night stay with my wife Liane, daughter Molly, her husband Andy, and their crazy/wacky/wonderful dog, Piko, provided an ever-changing cascade of weather. Several days were mostly spent inside, reading a 750-page novel for me, hours at the sewing machine working on quilts for Liane and Molly, hurry-up times on the beach for Andy and Piko. And, just because staying inside too long is personally impossible, during reading breaks it meant challenging those blustery breezes, sometimes feeling like I was trying to push a loaded semi-truck backwards. Then, after reversing direction and having the gale push me forward, flirting with the idea of testing whether those snorting winds might allow me to flap my arms and fly.

Then, after three days of downpours of rain, whistling winds and blankets of clouds, the guest appearance of – surprise! - blue skies.

		Huge offshore boulders		Strolling through a hole	Walking by an upraised fist

But whatever the weather, the beaches of Bandon are mesmerizing. Outcrops of tortured rocks, part of the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge, line the coastline. Depending on the tide, some can be reached along the exposed sandy beach, including one formation with a gaping opening large enough to easily walk through. But most of the islands out in the sea remain forbidden. For followers of King Arthur tales, the bizarre-shaped islands seem to be the creations of Merlin, some fashioned like candleholders with remnants of partially burned candles, others like upraised fists, or the faces of massive beasts with blowholes where milky waves snort through. It makes one wonder if the ocean gods revel in displaying the tormented results their unrelenting energy.

	A section of the Oregon Islands		Scrambling over rocky debris

Despite chill winds and drizzles of rain, Liane and I ventured a few miles north to the Bandon Marsh National Wildlife Refuge and Bandon Beach State Park to sample its trails, and especially the Coquille River Lighthouse.

	Coquille River Lighthouse

	A faint rainbow rises above the shore.

	An explosion of foam towers over the shore and high rocks.

The first day the rain gave way to blue skies and the winds rested, we headed to Charleston and Coos Bay. After stocking up on a case of tuna, it was off to Shore Acres State Park. The coast was foaming with milk-like spatter. Following a trail to an overlook of the Cape Arago, we paused often to hear and see thundering explosions where the water met the shore-guarding rocks, the collision creating towering, milky clouds.

	Following the Coast Trail Photo		Sculptures in the Gardens

Far different was the walk in Shore Acres Gardens, part of the fairytale-locallike once-upon-a-time estate owned by Louis J. Simpson.

In Charleston at Miller’s at the Cove and, more often, in Bandon at Tony’s Crab Shack, Bandon Fish Market, and other local eateries, we feasted on sumptuously delicious seafood – cod and crab tacos, pan-fried and roasted oysters, lobster soup, fish and chips, steamer clams, clam chowder, cod filet and, most scrumptious of all, Oysters Rockefeller.

	Umm … oysters		Tony’s Crab Shack

Located in Bandon’s Farm & Sea building is Washed Ashore, Art to Save the Sea, a gallery of often comical sculptures crafted from plastics washed ashore that are collected and crafted into wonderfully odd objects like seashells, dragons, octopus, sea turtles and more. A can’t- miss spot is Cosmo the Puffin, which overlooks the ocean at Coquille Point. Part of the fun is studying the sculptures to see the washed ashore debris. Volunteers have gathered more than 60,000 pounds of plastic.

Being inside, whether to view the sculptures, visit a bookshop, restock groceries, feast on fresh seafood, or just to listen as the winds roar and rain pound our rental home was great. But visiting the Southern Oregon Coast and the many offerings near Bandon definitely requires getting outside. No matter the weather, it’s good to be reckless in a Bandon.

	A lone gull on his perch

	Sunset on the beach in Bandon

About the Author

Lee Juillerat is a semi-retired writer-photographer who lives in Southern Oregon. Along with stories for High on Adventure and Southern Oregon newspapers and magazines, he is the author of books about Crater Lake National Park and Lava Beds National Monument. His book, “Ranchers and Ranching,” includes stories and photos of more than 300 people. He can be contacted at 337lee337@charter.net.