Giraffe enclosure rsesembles the African savanah at the Living Desert Zoo.

Desert Hiking Isn’t as Easy as It Looks

The Living Desert Zoo and Gardens in Palm Desert, CA, is one of the area’s best-known attractions. More than 600 animals live here, and various forms of desert vegetation are also abundant. Palm Desert sits in the state’s Coachella Valley, about a 40-minute drive from the well-known Palm Springs.

Enroute to seeing the animal exhibits, Living Desert visitors can stroll through various desert environments. Some of the designated areas include vegetation from East Africa, the Mojave and the Baja Oasis. Less formally constructed gardens include the native bee, the butterfly, the hummingbird, and the sage gardens. In one area, an extensive network of cactus gardens contains more varieties of cactus than one can count.

One of the lesser-known features of the Living Desert is an adjacent nature preserve that protects more than 1,000 acres of Sonoran Desert. Inside the preserve are three hiking trails with varying degrees of difficulty. Hiking is free with Living Desert admission. However, the trailhead can be difficult to spot. It’s at the far end of the zoo, across the road from a colorful carousel and next to the Bighorn Mountain, where a large herd of bighorn sheep graze lazily in the sun.

A snapshot of this writer as she hikes the Living Desert’s 5-mile trail.
Please note the jaunty safari-style hat – a must for hiking in the hot sun.

Hikers can choose from three loops: the 0.5-mile Discovery Loop, the 1.5-mile Adventure Loop, or the 5-mile Wilderness Loop. The first two loops cover mostly flat and sandy ground, excellent for an up-close-and-personal look at palo verde and smoke tree. The trails are well-marked, and there are informative signs to read along the way.

In spring, when the area’s infrequent rains arrive, the valley is filled with colorful flowers. Tiny, pink Desert Sand Verbena can be seen, along with the tiny white flowers that are known as Desert Pincushion. Larger yellow flowers are often found on the brittlebush plant. All of these varieties are examples of the desert ecosystems found around Palm Springs. (The photos in this article were taken in mid-February.)

The 1.5-mile Adventure Loop includes a short climb to view the San Andreas Fault. If you hikers fail to see a fault line, don’t worry. The fault itself doesn’t have prominent, jagged edges or deep fissures (thank goodness!). The longer Wilderness Loop gives you a better view of the fault and the land surrounding it.

Pink clusters of Desert Sand Verbena brighten
the desert landscape in spring.

If you haven’t packed appropriate hiking gear, it’s probably safer to stick to the first two (shorter) hikes. The longer Wilderness Loop is another story. You must be prepared to hop from rock to rock in one section (above a dry sand bed), then scramble up other rocks that rise to an elevation gain of 736 feet. Aside from the rockiest areas, the well-worn pathways are easy to follow. It takes about 2-3 hours to complete the Wilderness Loop, depending on the number of rest stops and water breaks.

The Living Desert trails can be hiked daily in season (October 1-May 31). They are free with Living Desert admission. Be advised that some sections of the Wilderness Loop may require detective skills to identify. More than once, this writer wandered atop big rocks until she found a trail of sandy footprints pointing the way. But most of the trail is a well-worn path that is easy to follow. The climb among the desert hillsides is steep and somewhat arduous, especially for hikers (such as this writer) who are in the 65+ age category.

A few tips: wearing hiking boots that cover ankles are preferable to hiking in sneakers. Sandals are definitely out – the gritty desert sand would seep between toes in an instant. Socks are a must, and bringing an extra pair is personally encouraged. It goes without saying that, in the desert’s dry heat, items such as broad-brimmed hats, sunglasses and sunscreen are all necessary. Most people carry cell phones, but be advised that reception is spotty in wilderness areas (especially those located near mountains). Bringing a whistle is smart in case you need to summon help on the trail.

The most important item to bring is water. Except for a couple of manmade wooden shelters located along the trails, the sun above is unyielding. The Living Desert staff recommends bringing two quarts of water per hiker. Snacks that won’t melt in the heat come in handy, too. Bring a small, first-aid kit if you can. Lightweight, adjustable hiking poles are advised for less-nimble hikers. And of course, whatever you pack in must be packed out.

Also dotting the landscape are tiny white flowers, known as Desert Pincushion.
They add a touch of color to the harsh, rocky landscape.

All of these trails are “hike at your own risk.” Don’t expect guides to monitor the trails. (That’s why a simple first aid kit is essential; it you fall and get a bad scrape on your leg or arm, or twist your ankle, you’ll have to manage on your own.)

A sense of exhilaration fills the senses as you finally ascend to the top of the rocky hills. The view below is stunning. On a clear day, you can see Palm Desert’s cityscape in the distance, not to mention the mountains farther off. There’s a small wooden structure at the top for respite from the sun. Inside, a wooden picnic table makes this a nice place to eat lunch (i.e., items from one’s backpack).

Don’t expect to find a palm-filled oasis along hikes at the Living Desert.
Wooden structures like these provide relief from the unrelenting sun.

Although this writer did not observe any large forms of wildlife along the trail (aside from a few birds flying above, and the occasional tiny lizard scurrying below), this is a possibility. The Living Desert guidelines stress that hikers should not approach or feed wildlife. Think of it this way: When you return to the zoo proper, you’ll have your fill of seeing mountain lions, giraffes, wolves, black rhinos, coyotes, eagles, barn owls, and more.

I had opted to hike alone. In general, this is never encouraged. However, a few hundred yards inside the trail, I met a younger hiker from Minnesota and we agreed to pair up for the rest of the hike. The trails here are relatively exposed. One can often see hikers on other sections of the trail, affording a sense of comfort.

The Living Desert is a non-profit, accredited institution. It’s located at 47900 Portola Avenue in Palm Desert on a hill behind the famed El Paseo, Palm Desert’s ultra-chic shopping district. Locally, El Paseo is known as the Rodeo Drive of the desert.

There are plenty of places to eat within the Living Desert, so if you need to stock up before you head to the trails, that won’t be a problem. After hiking, you can treat yourself with ice cream or toast with an alcoholic drink. For those traveling with children, a stop at the zoo shop is a must. In fact, it’s impossible to exit the Living Desert without going through the store. Stuffed animals are everywhere there, along with books, toys and other temptations. And for adults who forgot to pack a sweatshirt, a t-shirt or a hat for hiking, the store has many options.

	Rhino at the Living Desert Zoo		Wallabys at the Living Desert Zoo

When first entering the Living Desert, take a look at the times listed for free zookeeper presentations. The zookeepers know each individual animal and have some fun facts to share about feeding, cleaning and caring for them. While inside the Living Desert, children will also appreciate a trip to the petting zoo called a “kraal.” You can find Sicilian dwarf donkeys, Nubian goats and Jacob’s sheep. The carousel is a special treat (for a fee), and so is watching the elaborate train set near the zoo’s entrance. Also offered (for a fee) is a chance to feed the giraffes.

Amid the scenic landscape within the zoo,
an ostrich and a giraffe have plenty of room to roam.

Prospective hikers should note that the gate to the hiking trails closes at 4 p.m. The beginning and end of all these hikes are done on flat, desert ground, which is good for reacclimatizing to the zoo exhibits. Whether you are visiting the Living Desert for the animals or the trails, the earlier the start, the better. The Living Desert opens at 8 a.m. from October 1-May 31, and 7 a.m. from June 1-September 30 (trails are closed during the summer). Tickets range from $40 for adults (ages +18), to $30 for children (ages 3-17). Children under 3 are admitted free. Discounted tickets are available for active military but, unfortunately, there is no discount for seniors. Parking is free and plentiful. In peak season (February-April), it may be best to purchase advance tickets online to guarantee admission. Tickets are dated and timed which speeds up entry when you arrive at the Living Desert. For more information on the Living Desert, visit https://www.livingdesert.org or call (760) 346-5694.

About the author:

Anne Siegel (seen here at Frank Lloyd Wright's home in Spring Green, Wis.) is a Milwaukee-based freelance theater and travel writer. Her travel stories have appeared in many national magazines and major daily newspapers across the U.S.