Twin-Peak Giants: Ski British Columbia's Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains

My boots made a crunching sound as I scuffled through the village streets, blanketed by four new inches of fresh snow. Skis slung over my shoulder, I made my way toward the lifts and glanced up at the two majestic peaks towering over the valley. The sun was just cresting and the snow sparkled as crystals danced in the cold fresh air. I had a pleasant decision to make -- which grand mountain would I ski today? I could hop onto the "Excalibur Gondola" and begin my assent of Blackcomb Mountain, or board the "Whistler Village Gondola," just steps away, and spend my ski day on Whistler Mountain. Perhaps a coin toss would settle the dilemma.

Courtesy: Whistler Resort Association
Photographer: Leanna Rathkelly

With new powder to greet my skis, I hurried toward "Excalibur" so I could make fresh tracks. It was plenty cold and I was glad to be bundled in my warmest gear. The snow would stay fluffy for quite some time.

Courtesy: Whistler Resort Association
Photographer: Paul Morrison

Blackcomb, A Mountain to Look Up To

Blackcomb Mountain is one-half of the world-famous Whistler Resort in the rugged Coast Range of British Columbia, Canada. It is a skier's heaven. The views from the top are spectacular. With its expansive bowls, long cruising runs (the longest is seven miles), chutes, and vast glaciers, there’s terrain here for every ability level. There are runs at Blackcomb that are not recommended for the faint-of-heart. Big Bang and Coulour Extreme would have flies clinging to its walls. But for variety, Blackcomb offers its skiers and snowboarders more than 100 marked trails, five bowls, and two glaciers. With so many high-speed chairs at Blackcomb, you can get where you're going in record time.

With sunny skies above, I would ski the top of the peak today, riding four express chairs to the summit. Avalanche control had finished its job -- the T-bars on "Horstman Glacier" were open. What a delight to bounce in the knee-deep powder, and eye my signature "S" turns on the pristine slope.

I spotted a group of hard-core skiers and boarders climbing the ridge of "Blackcomb Glacier," to challenge some of the double-diamond runs on the backside. I preferred to save my legs for the bowls of Southern Comfort and Cloud Nine off "7th Heaven Express," then head off towards the "Glacier Express," working the double-black diamond Jersey Cream Bowl. Up the "Glacier Express" and a rhythmic run down Blue Line brought me to the Glacier Creek Lodge for a hot lunch and appreciated rest.

Runs off the "Solar Coaster Express" were good after lunch. This mid-mountain area offers lots of intermediate terrain and bump runs for additional challenges. I liked Springboard and then some knee-action on Sorcerer, which provided a short moguled field. While I didn’t ski the bottom half of the mountain today, instead choosing to download, it is perfect for the novice and intermediate skier. Merlins is the run to take to access the on-slope housing of the Upper Village.

Day two found me challenging the twin peak of Whistler Mountain. While it hadn’t snowed last night, I knew that with its with many north-facing slopes, the snow would stay fresh on Whistler.

The "Whistler Village Gondola" provides a protected environment for my ride up the mountain. I am whisked nearly 3,800 vertical feet up the slopes to an elevation of 6,069 feet. From here I can reach extraordinary bowls above the timberline. I am in search of some protected stashes of powder, so I head toward the "Harmony Express" to reach Harmony Bowl. The snow is soft, but skied out from yesterday. Sun Bowl still has some untracked, and I stay for a few runs. Next, I head down The Saddle in Glacier Bowl toward the "Peak Chair." It hasn’t yet opened, so I ride the "T-Bars" and find some snow the texture of whipped cream.

Courtesy: Whistler Resort Association
Photographer: Randy Lincks

It’s nearly ten and the "Peak Chair" has opened. The ride to the top is thrilling, if not intimidating, as I look at the slope falling away. The views are incomparable as I direct my eyes toward "Black Tusk" on Blackcomb Mountain. The Coast Range plays out before me and the snow below beckons. Whistler Bowl had lots of action yesterday, but the bumps are soft and not too large. It seems like miles before I reach Highway 86 that sends me toward the "Big Red Express."

Courtesy: Whistler Resort Assoc.
Photographer: David Stoecklein

Pika’s and the Roundhouse Restaurant are at the top junction of The "Big Red," "Emerald Express," and "Whistler Gondola" chairs. This is a great place to have a meal, not only for the food, but for the commanding 360^oview.

The weather is changing, so after lunch I decide to ski mid-mountain and seek some protection from the elements. The light can get flat on the upper mountain, and the trees lining the trails offer definition to the snow. Wild Card and Jimmy’s Joker offer some knee-pumping bumbs. Returning to the village, I opt for Dave Murray Downhill (the second longest downhill run in the world, 980 vertical meters) to experience the rush World Cup racers face.

Off the Hill

Day three. I welcomed a day off from downhill skiing to enjoy the nature and solitude of this beautiful area. I sampled some of the more than 17 miles of cross-country trails that wind throughout the Chateau Whistler golf course, Lost Lake Park, and the Nicklaus North Golf Course. The trails are track-set and offered me a unique way to explore the valley floor.

Courtesy: Whistler Resort Assoc.
Photographer: Leanna Rathkelly

Although I didn’t have time to sample some of the other off-slope activities, it would be invigorating to ice skate or snowshoe. Paragliding, snowmobiling, sleigh rides and scenic flights are offered, as well as heli-skiing in the surrounding ranges.

What makes Whistler/Blackcomb such an incredible ski vacation is the quality of the product. From the quaint Bavarian Village town of Whistler, to its world-class restaurants, abundant lodging choices, and aprés ski activities, this area is hard to beat. "You are treated like a first-class passenger here," remarked Rick Pullman, a local Vancouver skier. "From the time you are greeted by the lift hosts, to the bus boys who refill my coffee, Whistler is the best. The ski experience is incomparable." It’s no wonder that Whistler Resort has been rated as the Number One ski resort in North America by three ski magazines, Snow Country, Ski, and Skiing.

It’s a good thing I skied so hard during my stay, because the food was mouth-watering. La Rua Restaurant in the Upper Village was a highlight with its exquisite fish entrees. In the mood for Italian? Trattoria di Umberto offered a variety of authentically prepared Italian dishes. Val d’Isère is popular for its French cuisine, and after-ski hangouts like the Longhorn Pub and Garibaldi Lift Company are animated with musical groups and friendly chatter.

Whistler’s pedestrian village is magical with Bavarian architecture, tree-lighted ways, and sensational shopping. More than 150 boutiques including jewelry, apparel, ski and snowboard gear, and the always needed souvenir shops are scattered though out the village. A recreation center, museum, theater, and arcade offer entertainment for everyone.

The only way to have improved my holiday was to have spent more time here. I look forward to a return trip to sample more on- and off-slope recreation.